however I can not confirm if the wire colors are exactly the same. it does fit the Gen 2 Honda Accord BOSCH iBooster. I'm going to take it to a local brake shop next week and have them look everything over, test the pressure at the calipers, etc, just to make sure it's optimal and safe. this is what the Honda CRV Gen 1 BOSCH iBooster larger plug looks like, I say this for two reasons: 1. More info on using the iBooster is available here. There are a couple of options for electrically boosted braking systems, with one of the most popular being the Bosch iBooster. I did bleed the snot out of it and the bore on these is 26mm so right at 1". The part number for the relay on the side is: 1j0919433b The part number for the relays connector is: 1J0 973 733 Vacuum Sensors: BOSCH 0 265 005 331 / 13581083. The iBooster can be used with all drivetrain configurations and is particularly suited to hybrid and electric vehicles. There are folks out there working on CAN controllers for these so maybe there will be something available soon that allows for easy adjustability. With the iBooster, Bosch has developed a vacuum-inde-pendent, electromechanical brake booster that meets the demands of a modern braking system. Surprisingly, the cost is near enough to a wash between the two. I’m planning out my braking system and - since I my old brake booster is shot - I’m wrestling with whether I should go with a vacuum based system (booster, tank, pump, etc) or experiment with an iBooster. From my online research this seems to be the nature of these things and may actually be vehicle-specific CAN-programmed. Has anyone here used a Bosch iBooster for their build. I can lock up the brakes but the pedal feel is softer than I was anticipating. It's dead silent, pulls near zero power when idle and under 10A with normal braking. Wiring was simple using the harness mentioned in a previous post. The Bosch online spare parts shop: 24-hour service for your power tools and garden tools. The brake line ports on the booster are also metric so I got a pair of adapters for that too. The pushrod threads on the booster are metric of course (I removed the factory clevis) so I got a metric-to-imperial female adapter nut from McMaster and attached my existing pedal connector so there's some adjustability. I took measurements of the booster mounting studs and the firewall mounting holes and worked up simple brackets in CAD and sent them off to SendCutSend. I used a gen 2 iBooster supposedly out of a '21-23 Tesla Model S. I just finished this swap on my EV-converted 8.
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